ABSTRACT

This collection surveys the key debates and issues that currently face fashion journalism, going beyond traditional print media to consider its multiple contexts and iterations in an ever-evolving post-digital media environment.

Bringing together a diverse range of contributors, Insights on Fashion Journalism explores the characteristics, complexities, shifts and specificities of the field. The book is organized into three sections, mapping fashion journalism’s established and emerging practices and exploring its parameters from mainstream to marginal. Part One focuses on the complex relationships between those who practice fashion journalism, the fashion industry, and the media context in which they operate; Part Two considers the ways in which fashion journalism responds to the socio-political and cultural contexts in which it is created, as well as the impact these contexts have on tone, content, and style; and Part Three investigates how language is employed in different media.

Approaching fashion journalism through a critically diverse lens, this collection is an asset for academics and students in the fields of fashion studies, journalism, communication, cultural studies and digital media.

Introduction

Rosie Findlay and Johannes Reponen

Section One: Make It Work

1. From Typewriter to Smartphone: How Changing Capture and Delivery Systems Have Influenced the Practice of Fashion Journalism

Josephine Collins

2. The Politics of Fashion Criticism: How Newspaper Journalists’ Evaluative Criteria for Fashion Changed Between 1949-2010

Aurelie Van de Peer

3. KPI-Chasers, Content Farmers, and "Slashers": New Challenges to Hong Kong Fashion Journalists in the Digital Age

Tommy Tse and Gloria Lam

4. A Wealth of Feedback: Interview with Sarah Shannon, Editorial Director of Vogue Business

Johannes Reponen

5. Mode and Mode: Fashion Publishing in the Margins

Laura Gardner

Section Two: Fashion Speaks

6. Reporting Fashion: Fashion Moving Images from Newsfilms to Webseries

Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén

7. Dazed Media: Making an Impact

Priya Matadeen

8. How the East Was Worn: Negotiating National Heritage in the First Issues of Vogue Russia and Vogue Ukraine

Jana Melkumova-Reynolds

9. Fashion for a Cause: Crafting an Image of Authenticity and Wellbeing in Indian Fashion Magazines

Arti Sandhu

Section Three: Matters of Style

10. What a Difference a Page Makes: Contextualising Suzy Menkes’ Fashion Criticism Within and Across Media Outlets

Katie Baker Jones

11. Dapper Kid: Blogging Menswear

Syed Ahsan Abbas

12. Fashion as Mood, Style as Atmosphere: Literary Non-Fiction Fashion Writing on SSENSE and in London Review of Looks

Rosie Findlay

13. Talking Fashion

Jason Campbell and Henrietta Gallina; Lucy Clayton and Benjamin Linley Wild; and Marc Raco